Alaska ~ A Little Detour

Route from Anchorage to Seattle

 

A couple of years ago, I rode along with Emily when she moved from Virginia to Oregon. That was a 3000 mile drive across North America. In winter.

Well, now she’s moving again. This time from Anchorage, Alaska, back to Oregon. Time for another road trip, indeed.

We were hoping to take the Alaska Marine Highway (otherwise known as the ferry) all the way from Whittier, outside of Anchorage, to Seattle. Some ferries normally run all winter; some only seasonally due to weather. But it seems Alaska is about broke, given the long period we’ve had of low oil prices. With budget shortfalls, they have not been publishing the ferry schedules more than a month in advance, sometimes less, with warnings that some routes may be cancelled. This produced a run on the few boats that were scheduled, so they’ve been selling out a month in advance.

We managed to book passage on the last boat available in September; but couldn’t get the only one that makes the whole trip. So, we’ll drive across the Alaskan tundra, through the Yukon Territory in Canada (I understand some of the “highway” through the tundra is still gravel), through the northern reaches of the Rockies and Coastal Range, to a little town on the coast, back in Alaska, called Haines. A little detour of 750 miles.

From there, we’ll rendezvous with the ferry system again and hop boats another 1000+ miles down the coast through the Inside Passage to Seattle. Should be beautiful the whole way – and decidedly less insane than crossing the continent in winter.

The image above is what the route looks like plotted out on a map – all 2000 miles of it when all said and done.

I understand cell service and internet connections are spotty at best, available mostly while the ships are in port. Assuming I get a connection now and then I’ll post some photos along the way. This time tomorrow night I’ll be in Alaska.

Tally ho!

 

Maine ~ on Isle au Haut

Lighthouse on Isle au Haut Thorofare

 

There’s a welcome party on the docks at Isle au Haut. Families here to greet relatives, fishermen to collect gear ordered from the mainland, others just to see who or what the tide has brought in. I recognize the Mayor and Mrs. Mayor from the short film I saw a few years ago, the one that made me want to come here.

 

The dinghy dock at Isle au Haut

 

 

 

Rubber bands for binding lobsters’ claws for market.

 

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Maine ~ to Isle au Haut

Stonington Harbor, Maine

 

With the passing of the Small Reach Regatta I realize I never finished the posts from Maine over a year ago. Nice to be able to go back to it now.

 

A light rain is falling as we pull onto the town dock to board the ferry. Attendants wave cars to park out on the wooden pier over the water. Another cautiously directs us into a small slot, the cars packed in so tight T has to get out before I back in.

There’s a notable mix of vehicles: old rusty pickups, almost as old as I am, with Maine plates. Next to those a brand new Lexus or Mercedes with out of state plates. Repeat. Like much of coastal Maine, people with homes on Isle au Haut are either true year-round locals, people who make a living on or near the water, or wealthy summer people from away, their second or third homes out on the island.

 

 

I chat with the fellow who waved us in. He’s friendly but his accent seems off. Says he was born here but grew up away, a teacher. Now he comes back every summer and works odd jobs for the season to be near home, his parents aging. Says he misses it so much that he comes back every year.

We rent bikes there on the dock to take with us on the ferry. A dozen or so are arranged in a large empty warehouse once used for sorting and loading fish; it too is out over the water. We try the bikes for fit and finish, and I ride figure 8’s through the big echoing space that once was bustling with people and cod and lobster. It’s clean, the cement floor smooth for riding, and the walls smell faintly of fish. Light filters in through tall salt-crusted windows. Gliding in big looping circles, murmurs of conversation, rain pattering on the tin roof.

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CLAW ~ August 2017

direct Youtube link

 

Charlottesville Lady Arm Wrestlers charity fundraiser at Champion Brewing Company.

August 19, 2017.

Can’t keep a good town down.