Manokin River ~ Janes Island to Teague Creek

Doug in his Cornish Shrimper Tidings 

 

Forecasts call for clearing skies and tempering wind overnight. But back at camp the rain has not yet dissipated. In the evening, in the Executive Conference Room, there is some disagreement regarding the direction the company should take in the morning. The destination is not disputed  – the Manokin River – just how best to get there. Wind will be out of the North, dead on the nose.

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Leaving Tangier on Shannon Kay III

leaving Tangier aboard the Shannon Kay III

direct Youtube link

 

By mid-afternoon we need to work our way back to the docks. We pass the house owned by the retired guy on the mailboat. It’s surrounded by ankle deep water and tall reeds waving in the wind. This corner of the island is lower. I remember even 40 years ago the streets here flooded at high tide, and yards carved from a sea of reeds.

 

 

 

 

another Tangier mirror found

 

 

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Tangier Promenade ~ Chesapeake Float 2015

Mailboat Harbor, Tangier 

 

Around the corner from the ferry dock is Lorraines’s, the only place on Tangier Island, we’re told, open for lunch today. It is closed. This according to Lorraine, who is sweeping the steps. Tonight is the Senior Prom, and the Prom Dinner is at Lorraine’s, so they’ve closed to decorate and make preparations.

She says, however, there is one table of four that has not been pulled into the banquet table and decorated, and she can set that for five. As long as we only want crab cakes she will serve us lunch.

Crab cakes it is.

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Tangier Island Homecoming ~ Chesapeake Float 2015

video: Mailboat entering Mailboat Harbor on Tangier Island

direct Youtube link 

 

Two other times I’ve been to Tangier. Once as a boy of 12, my grandparents took us – me, my brother and sister – on the ferry from Reedville, Virginia, just up the road from where they lived, where I spent summers. Thirty years later, when my own daughters were the same age, I took them over on the same ferry. Ten years later still, on the mailboat from Crisfield, will be the third time. What’s most surprising is not how much has changed in all that time, but how very, very little.

 

 

 

Our group meets for breakfast down by the town dock at the Waterside Cafe. (It’s good hearty food, with omelettes that cover a dinner plate and endless coffee.) From there the we split and parts ways. Some head back to the campsite to sleep and read through the rainy day; others drive south to scout the lower peninsula; five of us wait on the dock to board a boat for Tangier.

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Camping Out the Storm ~ Chesapeake Float 2015

 Crossing Tangier Sound

 

Getting out of Smith Island at low tide is proving a surprising challenge. A text comes through from home saying the storm knocked out the power, the same front heading our way. VHF weather says rain and high wind, with gusts to 30+. We dallied longer over lunch than prudent, we realize, and now dark clouds are filling the sky to the southwest.

Everyone ties in reefs and shoves off. We have three miles of sailing within Smith Island just to get out, and all dead into a wind still coming from the southeast. Beyond that it’s another 7 miles to across Tangier Sound. A couple of hours of sailing, at best. That’s a lot of time for wind and waves to build in the Sound.

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Tangier Sound Ahead of a Storm ~ Video 4 of 4

direct Youtube link

 

We dallied too long over lunch in Ewell. A message from home said the storm knocked out the power, and was coming our way. The radio said it was bringing rain and wind, with gusts to 30+.

Still calm on the way out, in the lee of the island. But the tide was out now, and we kept getting stuck and bumping bottom on the three mile trek out Big Thorofare. Short tacking across the narrow channel delayed us more. By the time we reached the Sound it was blowing pretty good and spitting rain.

Thanks to Kevin Brennan for the clips of Obadiah.

The companion article appears in the July 2015 issue of Small Boats Monthly, a WoodenBoat publication. A month of access to the current issue and the full archive is $2.99. You can cancel a subscription at any time.


Within Smith Island ~ Video 3 of 4

direct Youtube link

 

Leaving North End Bottom in the morning, we sailed past Tylerton, through Rhodes Point and on to Ewell.

 

Thanks to Kevin Brennan for the clips of Obadiah.

The companion article appears in the July 2015 issue of Small Boats Monthly, a WoodenBoat publication. A month of access to the current issue and the full archive is $2.99. You can cancel a subscription at any time.