New Year, New Old Boat ~ East of Edenton

 Lightning #2833 afloat earlier this year

 

The day after New Year’s, T and I got up in the cold dark and started a four hour drive, heading east toward Edenton, North Carolina. We’re going to see about a boat.

By sunrise, we’re in peanut country, south of the James. Cotton, a little sorghum, but mostly peanuts. Broad, flat, brown fields leading up to small towns clustered around silos and a train depot, a single stoplight maybe. The other side of town, more fields and more fields. Then a blackwater swamp of Tupelo and Cypress – a natural border, the margin between towns – then the cycle starts again. Disputanta (there’s got to be an interesting story behind the name) and the three W’s of Waverly, Wakefield and Windsor.

 

 

 

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Chickahominy River ~ Evening Light

 

Kevin M. in his Marsh Cat little t 

 

A light breeze, little more than a breath, carries us off the beach and out into the river. A few hug the shore, others tack over and out into open water, looking for clear air.

 

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Chickahominy River ~ Fossils & History

Lunch break on a beach 

 

Inside a broad cove there’s a sand beach, out of the wind beneath a bluff. Cypress knees serve well for docking cleats.

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Chickahominy River ~ Wildlife

 

A wide, quiet bend in the river is a good place to pull into an eddy and wait for the others, let wet socks dry out, and do a little birdwatching. 

 

 

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Chickahominy River ~ Sea of Glass

Dennis ghosting into the river. 

 

It’s damp and quiet at the small private marina, the sun still low and weak. The other boats are rigged up and waiting, but with no wind no one is in a hurry. We mill around in sweatshirts with hands warming in pockets as the mist burns off. In a few minutes I’ve launched and we’re off.

 

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Chickahominy River ~ Ghosts and Goblins

Fog in the valleys, Albemarle County 

  

It’s still dark and I’m heading again for the Chickahominy. The sun has not yet risen and fog, blue and cold, is curled up in the valleys, sleeping over creeks and streams. There is frost in the hollows. When the sun finally breaks the tree line it sets a veil of mist over a farmer’s pond on fire as I pass.

 

Dark road, sunrise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is late in the year to be sailing, even here in Virginia. The last day of October, All Hallows Eve. But a handful of us are meeting at the confluence of the Chick and the James to squeeze in a few more sails before winter. Caesura was freshly varnished for MASCF in St. Michaels before it was cancelled ahead of Hurricane Joaquin. She got one good day of sailing at Janes Island on the Eastern Shore on the consolation trip. I’m hoping to get her out a couple of times this weekend.

The other guys arrived mid-week, staying overnight with Harris and Barbara, who are graciously hosting us all. They had a good day of sailing yesterday, I hear. I’ll meet them at the marina by 9, taking Route 5, the old plantation road along the James for much of the way.

When I enter Harris’ neighborhood there’s an unexpected delay. People of all shapes and sizes, and ages, are jogging toward me up the road. In costume. Skeletons, ghosts, giant lizards, fairies, etc.. Not all are exactly jogging. Some are more bobbing vigorously as they walk, which sort of gives the impression they are jogging. It looks like some kind of charity run.

Dour looking sheriff’s deputies direct traffic off to the side, taking it a little too seriously. Police cruisers with lights popping off are escorting cars slowly around the procession. Perhaps I just need more coffee.

 

Oysters, Alabama Style

 

 

When I was a kid, my dad, a traveling salesman, came home on the weekends. He drove all over the South, mostly small towns far from cities, from North Carolina to Florida and all the way to Mississippi.

Whenever he went through the Florida Panhandle and the Gulf Coast of Alabama he sometimes brought home oysters. Tired with roadburn, he’d pull into the driveway on a Friday evening and open the trunk of his old Mercedes diesel to reveal a bushel of Apalachicola oysters in a big burlap sack. We’d stand in the driveway in the twilight and eat them right out of the trunk.

Then we’d haul them around back in a wheelbarrow and invite all the neighbors over. Steam some on the grill under the same wet burlap, eat more raw. Oyster stew. Fried oysters. Oysters for days.

A great article in

The Bitter Southerner

 

“He beat the guy with a baseball bat, set him up in a rocking chair, and then shot him,” Brent says. “You might not want to get that graphic. You could just say it didn’t end well.”